The Paradox of Finger Training
Here is the frustrating truth about finger strength: the training that builds it fastest is also the training most likely to injure you. Heavy hangboard sessions, campus board work, small crimps — they all load the same tendons and pulleys that are one bad session away from a pop.
I have been on both sides of this equation. I have had the breakthroughs that come from consistent finger training, and I have had the six-month setbacks that come from pushing too hard too fast.
My Hangboard Protocol
I train fingers three days per week, never on consecutive days:
- Day 1 — Max hangs: 10-second hangs at near-max weight, 3 sets of 5 reps, 3 minutes rest between sets. Half crimp only — never full crimp in training.
- Day 2 — Repeaters: 7 seconds on, 3 seconds off, 6 reps per set, 3 sets. Moderate weight. This builds endurance in the fingers.
- Day 3 — Easy volume: Long hangs (20-30 seconds) on larger holds. This is active recovery and tendon conditioning.
The Rules I Never Break
- Never train fingers when fatigued — fresh tendons handle load; tired tendons tear
- Never full crimp on a hangboard — the risk-to-reward ratio is terrible
- Always warm up for 20 minutes — easy climbing, finger rolls, gradually increasing load
- Stop at the first sign of tweakiness — a missed session costs a day; a pulley injury costs months
- Deload every fourth week — tendons adapt slower than muscles
Nutrition for Tendon Health
This is where my dietitian brain meets my climber brain. Tendons need specific nutritional support:
- Collagen or gelatin (15g) with vitamin C 30-60 minutes before training
- Adequate protein — 1.6 to 2.0g per kg of bodyweight daily
- Omega-3 fatty acids — anti-inflammatory support for recovery
- Sleep — tendons repair during deep sleep; 7-9 hours is non-negotiable
Finger strength is a years-long project, not a weeks-long one. Treat your tendons like the non-renewable resource they are, and they will carry you up things you never thought possible.
